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| Two substantial
gentlemen, around 1870, in frock suits. Note the
watch chain attached to the top vest button and
their black bow ties. Note also that they wear black
trousers with black frock coats (quite unfashionable).Click
for a Larger Image |
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| "A well dressed man does not require so much
an extensive as a varied wardrobe. He wants a different
costume for every season and every occasion; but if
what he selects is simple rather than striking, he may
appear in the same clothes as often as he likes, as
long as they are fresh and appropriate to the season
and the object.
There are four kinds of coats which he must have: a
business coat,
a frock coat,
a dress-coat and
an overcoat. A well dressed man may do well with four
of the first, and one each of the others per annum.
An economical man may get by with less."
"The dress of a gentleman should be such as not
to excite any special observation, unless it be for
neatness and propriety. The utmost care should be exercised
to avoid even the appearance of desiring to attract
attention by the peculiar formation of any article of
attire, or by the display of an immoderate quantity
of jewelry, both being a positive evidence of vulgarity.
His dress should be studiously neat, leaving no other
impression than that of a well dressed gentleman." |
Martine's Handbook
of Etiquette, 1866 |
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| "Don't dress like a 'dude' or a 'swell'; nor carry
a little poodle dog (a man's glory is his strength and
manliness--not in aping silly girls), nor cock your hat
on one side, nor tip it back on your head (let it sit
straight and square), nor wear anything conspicuous or
that will make you offensive to others" |
| Modern Manners and
Social Forms, 1889 |
| "The native independence of American character
regards with disdain many of the stringent social laws
which are recognized in England and on the continent.
Thus, the dress which many of our countrymen adopt...would
subject them to serious annoyance abroad." |
| "Martine's Handbook"
1866 |
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| "It was at one time the fashion to affect a certain negligence,
which was called poetic, and supposed to be the result of genius.
An ill-tied, if not positively untied cravat was a sure sign
of an unbridled imagination; and a waistcoat was held together
by one button only, as if the swelling soul in the wearer's
bosom had burst all the rest. If in addition to this the hair
was unbrushed and curly, you were certain of passing for a "man
of soul". I should not recommend any young gentleman to
adopt this style, unless he can mouth a great deal, and has
a good stock of quotations of the poets. It is of no use to
show me the clouds, unless I can see you in them, and no amount
of negligence in your dress and person will convince me you
are a genius, unless you can produce an octavo volume of poems
published by yourself" |
| The Habits of Good Society,
1859 |
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