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| A frock suit around
1865. In the 1860s, large, colorful, sloppy ties
were still in fashion. They tended towards black
by the late 1870s. |
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The
Frock Suit
(Day Wear)
| The frock coat was single or double breasted, usually
black, bottom hem above the knee, and distinguished by
a squared shape at the bottom front. Its companion,
the morning coat was single breasted
and has a rounded, swallow tail shape. Both were refered
to as "morning" dress, to distinguish them from
evening dress. Both were worn with contrasting pants and
top hats. In the South and West however, top hats were
often replaced by broad brimmed, low crowned hats for
everyday frock suit wear. Garish
colorful vests, often of patterned Chinese
silk, were still common with frock suits through the early
'60s, but were replaced by black, white or gray by the
'70s. The same applied to ties. Colorful cravats were
often seen with Frocks in the '60s, but by the '70s most,
but not all, had been replaced by small black bow ties.
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| The entire
frock suit ensemble, with top hat, 1860-1870 |
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| "The morning dress for gentlemen is a black frock coat,
or a black cut-away, white or black vest, according to the season,
gray or colored pants, plaid or stripes according to the fashion,
a high silk stove pipe hat, and a black scarf or necktie. A
black frock coat with black pants is not considered a good combination..
The morning dress is suitable for garden parties, Sundays, social
teas, informal calls, morning calls and receptions." |
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"Our Deportment"
1879
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| A gentleman with gray
striped trousers, black vest and dark tie, around
1870 |
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| A rumpled, probably
second hand, frock suit, without tie. |
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| "At afternoon funerals, wear a frock coat and top
hat. Should the funeral be your own, the hat may be dispensed
with." |
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The Cynic's Rules of
Conduct. 1905
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To the right is a splendid view of the
classic Frock Suit from the 1870s.
Key elements to note:
- Small black bow tie. Colorful ties
are seldom seen with frock suits after the 1860s.
- Black wool vest (it might well have
been colorful silk in the 1860s) This one is double
breasted, but it could just as easily have been single
breasted.
- Watch chain. This one is made of
braided hair.
- Shirt cuffs visible at the wrist.
- Winged shirt collar on a white shirt.
Something similar can be purchased at any modern tux
shop. Note that a colorful shirt is never
worn with a frock suit. It is always white.
Click on the image
for a larger view.
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Click
Here for Pictures of An Original Frock Coat
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