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James Thomson, Sheriff of Los Angeles and Manuella De La Ossa
Sheriff Jim Thomson of Los Angeles and his wife Manuela around 1863. The colorful shawl collared, patterned vest, worn with a black frock coat and light trousers is very typical of America in the 1860s. While he could wear a top hat with this, top hats were unpopular in the west, and a broad brimmed, low crowned hat is more likely.

The Vest

The vest was an essential part of a gentleman's wardrobe in the 19th Century. It was only ever dispensed with by men doing hard manual labor--though they often sported one as well.

In the 1860s, colorful vests, often of patterned Chinese silk were popular, especially in the South and the West. They are now associated with gamblers, but they had a wider appeal in their time. Gamblers were the last to give them up.

From the 1870s on, vests tended to be black or white for wear with frock coats, morning coats or evening dress coats, which of course, were also black by that time. When worn with a sack suit, they would be of a color to match the suit. Evening vests were cut low to show off the shirt. In the 1860s, the day vest was also often fairly low cut with a broad shawl collar. From the 1870s, the day vest would tend to be fairly high cut and have a small, notched lapel.

Victorian vest unbuttoned
Another frock suit from the 1860s. Note his unbuttoned vest. This was a highly fashionable thing to do in the '60s. Note also his small tie. His vest is plain black wool. Click on the picture for a larger image.

There are a few points of difference between 20th Century vests and 19th Century vests. 19th Century vests usually (though not always) had lapels, either in a shawl or notched style. They also nearly always had a lower hem that was parallel to the ground, rather than the modern vest which tapers downward in front.

The following are some photographs of a late 19th Century day vest in my collection.

Victorian vest: front detail
The vest is made of black wool edged with black silk grosgrain. The 5 buttons are covered with black silk. Click for larger image
Victorian Vest: Back detail
The vest is backed with black polished cotton. It has a small tie, of the same material that uses a metal buckle. Click for larger image.
Victorian vest: lining
The vest is lined in white cotton with blue pin stripes. Click for larger image.

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